Monday, 5 March 2018

The Fury's BACK!

This evening I taxed the Fury & took it down the road to get some fresh fuel. The throttle feels really good, progressive & smooth, the clutch is also much lighter & more progressive, but to fully disengage it needs to be pushed right to the bulkhead, so when I get some time, I'll move the pull-rod to the outermost hole in the pedal, which will add weight & reduce travel.

But the main difficulty is the brakes, the pedal has way too much travel, but the handbrake has hardly any at all, so it's not just out of adjustment. I need to get someone helping me bleed them.


Saturday, 24 February 2018

Braking Point

I'm getting REALLY fed up with these back brakes!

My plan was to un-bolt a slave cylinder, turn it 90deg & get the air out, but the bolts were stuck fast & an odd size hex, so I pushed the upper piston down & pumped the brakes & got several large bubbles out.

On Friday I was early out of work to get the brakes working yes? No.

First I discovered that there was something wrong with the way I’d adjusted the handbrake, so had to take the top off the trans tunnel again, then I thought I’d take the upper piston out of a cylinder & top up the fluid directly, this seemed to work quite well until I tried the same with the off side, but the seals were weeping, so I went in & ordered a new pair of slave cylinders. Which is annoying because the old ones are going to be a git to get off with the seized bolts & also because the slaves out of the 9” drums are the right size, but the wrong manufacturer, so aren’t interchangeable.

Monday, 19 February 2018

An Expensive Shock

I've rumbled on with the mods to the car, I took off the enormous rear drum brakes (9" - like they put on Transit Vans) & fitted the more suitably sized 8" ones. This has saved 4.5Kg in unsprung weight, 3KG or which was rotating too! But they have given me a bit of a problem.

I'm still wrestling with bleeding the brakes. I think, there's air in the slave cylinders - on the old 9" brakes the nipple was directly above the hose (OK - insert own joke here), so all the air came out. On the 8" they one beside the other so I think there's air trapped above the bleeding point. Still considering what to do about this.

Also at the weekend, I thought I'd raise the rear suspension a bit, when I got under the back, the rear shock absorbers were in a bit of a sorry state, the bump stops on the shafts were MASHED, the rubber sleeve thing over the top of the shock body was MASHED & the upper spring pan had welded itself to the body so was impossible to adjust. So I've just ordered a set of Protechs (EEEK! - £££££)  from Fury Sports Cars. The annoying thing is that the front pair are seemingly immaculate - hardly a scratch on them. Maybe someone in the SKCC will want them.

Friday, 2 February 2018

Controls Under Control

IMG_0498.JPGWell, after a couple of little ooops' I think I'm about done with the controls.

Ooops one:-
I tested the clutch with only one bracket, so when I fitted the second bracket, re-tested it & the pedal went down & stayed there it must be the second bracket distorting it yes? getting the bracket off isn't an easy thing, but I managed, un-bolted it from the car - & it made no difference. I'd over-tightened the clutch pedal (another awkward to get to part). So that's all now sorted.

Oooops 2:-
While that was going on I'd also fitted the new brake master cylinder & hoses, but the following day saw a small pool of brake fluid on the chassis. A quick feel around underneath revealed the source of the slippery wetness (insert your own joke here) - it was coming from the seal around one of the new fittings. So off with the reservoir again, sqidge the fitting right down, & this time I made some rubber washers to pre-load the fittings into the seals, this seems to have worked, but obviously I shall be watching it closely.


So, flushed with success, I started the engine, pushed the clutch down and engage first gear! letting the pedal up again made the car move!! I should explain that while I appreciate that's what supposed to happen & there are millions of cars where that is exactly what does happen - I'd been concerned that the pedal was so light, it wouldn't have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch plates. But that doesn't seem to be the case at all.

Now if the brake fluid stays put inside the pipes & hoses, it shouldn't be too long before they are fully sorted & the car's drivable again.

Tuesday, 30 January 2018


Did some tidying up this evening. I sorted out a belly pan bracket that’s had a pair of jig-pins in it for a year, set up the clutch pull-rod & re-fitted the pedal, then re-fitted the brake master cylinder & re-attached the pipes. Lastly, I made a new bracket for the brake fluid reservoir, as the one it came with weighs more than the new bracket AND the reservoir combined.
The new bracket’s the one on the reservoir.

The steel bracket that came with it weighs 225g, the reservoir + the new bracket weigh 205 & that's before any lightening work.

The controls are very nearly back together & the car will soon be drivable, then a few minor jobs, like the cam belt & new exhaust wadding & I shall be back on the road in time for spring

Sunday, 21 January 2018

Braking Good

Well - it's been an interesting day, snow this morning, then meeting my ex wife for the first time in 30 years (long story, it was arranged by my son), but strangest of all was a sheet metal bracket I'd made fitted perfectly first time!! :lol:

Usually I make things fit by drilling to suit on assembly, but the bracket that had to fit the brake master cylinder has to fit - no chance to "adjust" to suit - and it did, here's the proof:-
The old master cylinder was fitted with a couple of roll pins & I'm tempted to re-use them, but bolts the right size would be better. I also need some hose clips, but basically that's the brake master cylinder mod done - as long as it doesn't leak.

Saturday, 20 January 2018

Braking Back On The Agenda

The work on the car's controls continues at a snail's pace - but at least it is still moving on.

Today I went to my brother's house with a lump of alloy, two drawings & a hopeful expression on my face. He set to on his lathe he made me these exquisite items (it's an engineer thing).

Stop me if I've explained this already, but the brake master cylinder on the car has a built in translucent reservoir so you can see the level of the brake fluid. Except on a Fury it's WAY down at floor level & you can only see it at an angle of 45deg the far side of some chassis members, wiring, hoses & the steering column.

This means that to check the level, you have to take the filler cap off. This is not-a-good-thing as it can allow dirt & moisture in. Obviously the sensible thing is to leave it as it is & be carful when I check the level, buuuuuut I can't help thinking & I took the reservoir off to find this:-

It struck me that if I had two "bobbins" the same size as the output pipes on the reservoir I could use a remote reservoir & mount it almost anywhere - which is where the two exquisite items made by my brother com in - they are the bobbins.

Here they are fitted in the master cylinder, but they will need to be retained or they'll work their way out & the brakes will fail, so I've made the bracket in the last photo (not quite finished) which will fit over the bobbins & attach to the same holes the original reservoir attached to.

A hose will go onto each of the bobbins & up to the new reservoir & presto - a much better set-up than the car had to start with.